d change of scene. I remember that after
the first month I had a deep longing to get away into the heart of an
old wood, or into a lonely glen among the mountains, where I should
see no trace of man's handiwork, and recover the tone of my spirit
amid the wildness of nature. For this inevitable reaction of
sight-seeing in the city, a remedy may be found by retiring for a day
or two to some one or other of the numerous beautiful scenes in the
neighbourhood. There is no city in the world more favourably situated
for this purpose than Rome. Some of the most charming excursions may
be made from it as a centre, starting in the morning and returning at
night. Every tourist who stays but a fortnight in the city makes a
point of seeing the idyllic waterfalls of Tivoli, the extensive ruins
of Hadrian's Villa, the picturesque olive-clad slopes of Frascati and
Tusculum, and the lovely environs of Albano on the edge of its
richly-wooded lake. But there are spots that are less known at no
greater distance, which yet do not yield in beauty or interest to
these familiar resorts. Chief among these is Veii, whose very name
has in it a far-off old-world sound. When the Campagna has quickened
under the breath of the Italian spring into a tender greenness, and is
starred with orchids and sweet-scented narcissuses, I know nothing
more pleasant than a visit to this renowned spot.

Veii was the greatest city of the Etruscan confederacy. When Rome was
in its infancy it was in the height of its grandeur. After a ten
years' siege it was captured by Camillus; and so stately were its
buildings, so beautiful was the scenery around it, and so strong its
natural defences, that it was seriously proposed to abandon Rome and
transfer the population to it, and thus save the rebuilding of the
houses and temples that had been destroyed during the invasion of the
Gauls. It was only by a small majority that this project was set
aside. Veii never recovered from its overthrow. In vain the Romans
attempted to make it one of their own cities by colonising it. Many
families established themselves there, but they were afterwards
recalled by a decree of the senate, which made it an offence
punishable with death for any Roman to remain at Veii beyond a
prescribed period. By degrees it dwindled away, until in the days of
Propertius its site was converted into pastures; and the shepherd
roamed over it with his flocks, unconscious that one of the most
famous cities of