to conceive that any source of wealth should exist in
such a locality. When standing on the parched sand, with the burning
sun shining in pitiless might upon all around, the meagre grass burnt
to a mere straw, the tangled bushes denuded of all verdure save a few
shriveled leaves, the very insects seeking shelter from the rays, there
is not a tree to throw a shadow, but a dancing haze of molten air
hovers upon the ground, and the sea like a mirror reflects a glare,
which makes the heat intolerable. And yet beneath the wave on this
wild and desolate spot glitter those baubles that minister to man's
vanity; and, as though in mockery of such pursuits, I have seen the
bleached skulls of bygone pearl-seekers lying upon the sand, where they
have rotted in view of the coveted treasures.

There is an appearance of ruin connected with everything in the
neighborhood. Even in the good old times this coast was simply visited
during the period for fishing. Temporary huts were erected for
thousands of natives, who thronged to Ceylon from all parts of the East
for the fascinating speculations of the pearl fishery. No sooner was
the season over than every individual disappeared; the wind swept away
the huts of sticks and leaves; and the only vestiges remaining of the
recent population were the government stores and house at Arripo, like
the bones of the carcase after the vultures had feasted and departed.
All relapsed at once into its usual state of desolation.

The government house was at one time a building of some little
pretension, and from its style it bore the name of the "Doric." It is
now, like everything else, in a state of lamentable decay. The
honeycombed eighteen pounder, which was the signal gun of former years,
is choked with drifting sand, and the air of misery about the place is
indescribable.

Now that the diving helmet has rendered subaqueous discoveries, so
easy, I am surprised that a government survey has not been made of the
whole north-west coast of Ceylon. It seems reasonable to suppose that
the pearl oyster should inhabit depths which excluded the simple diver
of former days, and that our modern improvements might discover
treasures in the neighborhood of the old pearl-beds of which we are now
in ignorance. The best divers, without doubt, could never much exceed
a minute in submersion. I believe the accounts of their performances
generally to have been much exaggerated. At all events, those of the
pres