rosperity has steadily decayed since the native
article has been substituted for this reign of tyranny, it is not
wonderful that the average Minorcan has a hankering to groan again.
Indeed, he says as much with a candour that would be refreshing to
haters of Victoria R et I's expansive _raj_. But the Carabinero
who guards the public morals holds (in the bulk) different opinions. He
has no wish to be, like Othello, the possessor of a gone occupation;
and by way of marking this distaste, he is apt on occasion to be uppish
with the chance foreigner.
By force of circumstances, Haigh and I were in the way of finding
ourselves in no slight difficulties. The Briton in his own insular
ports is a very slipshod person with regard to the papers of small
craft--especially pleasure craft. He looks upon those last with a
favourable eye, and watches their going and coming with small concern.
The peoples of the Mediterranean are constructed in different fashion.
At the larger ports they are suspicious; but at the less frequented
spots, firmly disbelieving that men can ever yacht for mere pleasure,
they always take it for granted that any small craft is laden with
explosives and conspiracy, until it has been most clearly and
exhaustively demonstrated that such is not the case. Of course the
orthodox papers and clearances from one's port of departure form the
initial proof of innocence and harmlessness; and equally, of course,
the lack of formality which had signalized our departure from Genoa
prevented the display of these. And in addition, other matters combined
to make our characters look still more shady.
We must have been boarded by the authorities soon after bringing up to
our anchor, and I was dimly conscious of a stooping person in uniform
staring in at us through the cabin door. But I was far too weary to
wake or take any notice. However, the sight must have worked a dream
into my sleep, for I remember imagining that official's feelings when
he gazed at the mildewed desolation of the ugly cutter's interior, when
he contrasted her size with the infernal gale she must have been
sailing through to make the harbour, and when he noted that her entire
crew consisted of two persons very much out of ordinary yachtsmen's
uniform. And then I had visions of further inquiries; the official glee
with which more unsatisfactory items were arrived at; the head-shakes
of the British Vice-Consul; and--and then after that a deluge of lurid
com
|