ng
on deck, agreed to run up the Tyne. Hauling our wind, we stood in for
North Shields, passing close under the lighthouse, which stands amid the
ruins of the castle.

North Shields was evidently an active commercial place. Shipbuilding
was going on in the yards, and vessels were loading with coals, bound to
all parts of the world, each with a number of keels, or oval boats,
alongside, which had brought down the coal from the upper part of the
river. On board the vessels cranes were at work lifting up tubs of coal
from out of the keels, and depositing them in their holds. Of these
keels I shall have more to say by-and-by. Steamers emitting black
wreaths of smoke were coming and going,--some towing vessels out to sea,
others taking them up the harbour; while several were conveying
passengers. After breakfast we went on board one of the passenger
vessels, for papa and Uncle Tom did not wish to carry the yachts higher
up.

We had clear evidence that we were in a region of coal. The greater
number of vessels we met were colliers, their crews begrimed with coal
dust. "Everybody," as Dick remarked, "had a coaly look." People were
heard conversing in a broad Northumbrian accent, with a burr in most of
their words. They were broad-shouldered men, capable of doing any
amount of hard work. We came in sight of a fine stone bridge with nine
elliptical arches, which connects Newcastle with Gateshead, on the
opposite bank. Above it is another magnificent bridge; it is double,
the lower roadway, ninety feet above the river, being used for carriages
and foot passengers, while the upper carries the railway. It has two
piers at the margin of the river, and four others in the stream itself,
besides smaller piers. It was curious to walk under it, and to hear the
trains rumbling by overhead.

Newcastle stands on the north bank of the river. At first we thought it
a very smoky town, but on emerging from the narrow old streets we
reached some fine broad thoroughfares with large houses and magnificent
public buildings. At the quays were a vast number of vessels, some of
considerable size. Formerly coals used to be put on board vessels from
the oval boats I have before mentioned, called keels, of which a
considerable number are still employed. Each keel carries about twenty
tons of coal, the larger masses being piled up in the vessel, but
smaller coal is carried in tubs, each keel having about eight tubs. The
keels are an