but the neck or "sticking-piece," as
the butchers call it, contains more of the substance that you want to
extract, makes a stronger and more nutritious soup, than any other
part of the animal. Meats for soup should always be put on to cook in
_cold_ water, in a covered pot, and allowed to simmer slowly for
several hours, in order that the essence of the meat may be drawn out
thoroughly, and should be carefully skimmed to prevent it from
becoming turbid, never allowed to _boil fast_ at any time, and if more
water is needed, use boiling water from the tea-kettle; cold or
lukewarm water spoils the flavor. Never salt it before the meat is
tender (as that hardens and toughens the meat), especially if the meat
is to be eaten. Take off every particle of scum as it rises, and
before the vegetables are put in.

Allow a little less than a quart of water to a pound of meat and bone,
and a teaspoonful of salt. When done, strain through a colander. If
for clear soups, strain again through a hair sieve, or fold a clean
towel in a colander set over an earthen bowl, or any dish large enough
to hold the stock. As stated before, stock is not as good when made
entirely from cooked meats, but in a family where it requires a large
joint roasted every day, the bones, and bits and underdone pieces of
beef, or the bony structure of turkey or chicken that has been left
from carving, bones of roasted poultry, these all assist in imparting
a rich dark color to soup, and would be sufficient, if stewed as
above, to furnish a family, without buying fresh meat for the purpose;
still, with the addition of a little fresh meat it would be more
nutritious. In cold weather you can gather them up for several days
and put them to cook in cold water, and when done, strain, and put
aside until needed.

Soup will be as good the second day as the first if heated to the
boiling point. It should never be left in the pot, but should be
turned into a dish or shallow pan, and set aside to get cold. Never
cover it up, as that will cause it to turn sour very quickly.

Before heating a second time, remove all the fat from the top. If this
be melted in, the flavor of the soup will certainly be spoiled.

Thickened soups require nearly double the seasoning used for thin
soups or broth.

Coloring is used in some brown soups, the chief of which is brown
burnt sugar, which is known as caramel by French cooks.

Pounded spinach leaves give a fine green color to soup.