ere the family sits, when the work of the day
is over, to watch--and, doubtless, to criticise--the passers-by; also to
do the polite according to Malagasy ideas, for it must be told that
these people are very courteous. Even the poorest have a natural
dignity and ease of manner about them.

As our travellers approached the house they were observed with much
interest by the brown old gentleman and his comfortable-looking
wife, and his pretty little light-brown daughter, and a very
uncomfortable-looking elderly female with her head tied up, who were all
squatted on the _fijerena_.

When within hearing Laihova stopped, and said in the politest tone and
manner possible--

"Will you allow me to pass, sir?"

"Pray proceed, sir," replied the old gentleman, with a gracious smile.

This interchange of civilities was entirely formal, and stood in the
place of the Englishman's opening remarks on the weather, to which a
Malagasy would as soon think of referring, in this connection, as he
would to the hatching of crocodiles' eggs.

Then followed the conventional inquiry, "How are you? How is it with
you?" which politenesses, in a number of variations unknown to Western
speech, would have been continued, in ordinary circumstances, until the
passers-by were beyond the range of hearing; but the appearance of the
Englishmen induced the brown old gentleman on this occasion to beg the
travellers to stop and accept his hospitality. This they declined to
do, with many expressions of regret, on the ground that their business
at the capital was urgent.

"It would have gratified me much," said the old gentleman, "to have
entertained you. But you are all well, I hope?"

"Yes, we are very well," answered Laihova; "and how do _you_ feel?"

"I feel as well as possible. And is it well with _you_?"

"It is well with us. But it does not seem to be well with the lady,"
returned Laihova, glancing at the uncomfortable female with her head
tied up.

"No, it is not well with her. She has toothache on the north side of
her head. Farewell," said the brown old gentleman, re-squatting on the
_fijerena_, as the travellers moved on; "may you live," he shouted after
them, when nearly out of ear-shot, "and reach old age."

Great was the amusement of our travellers at all this, especially when
Ravonino explained about the toothache. "You must know," he said, "that
almost all the houses in the central provinces of the island are built
with t