deep round him as far as the
foot of the mast, but it did not reach us here in the bows, though
the spray flew over us, and our ears were full of the thunder of
the surf on the beach. But the sharp bows were firmly bedded in the
shingle, and we were in no danger of broaching to as wave after
wave hurled itself after us.
Bertric had stayed to take the casket of gold from the place in the
stern where we had set it.
"I had no mind to see the stern go to pieces and take this with
it," he said, setting the load at his feet. "The tide has not
reached its height yet, and she will be roughly handled. We had
best get ashore while we can. We may do it between the breakers."
I watched the next that came roaring past us. It ran twenty yards
up the shelving beach, and then went back with a rush and rattle of
pebbles, leaving us nearly dry around the bows. We might have three
feet of water to struggle through at first for a few paces, but
that was nothing. Even Gerda could be no wetter than she was, and
the one fear was that one might lose foothold when the next wave
came. It did not take long to decide what we had to do, therefore.
A wave came in, spent itself in rushing foam, and drew back. I was
over the bows with its first sign of ebb, and dropped into the
water when it seemed well-nigh at its lowest, finding it neck-deep
for the moment. It sank to my waist, and Dalfin was alongside me,
spluttering. Then Bertric helped Gerda over the gunwale, and I took
her in my arms, holding her as high as I could, and turning at once
shoreward. I tried to hurry, but I could not go fast, for the water
sucked me back, while Dalfin waded close behind me. Then I heard
Bertric shout, and I knew what was coming. The knee-deep water
gathered again as the next roller stayed its ebb, swirled and
deepened round me, and then with a sudden rush and thunder the wave
came in, broke, and for a moment I was buried in the head of it,
and driven forward by its weight. I felt Gerda clutch me more
tightly, and Dalfin was thrown against me, gasping, and he steadied
me.
It passed, and I could see again, and struggled on. Then the
outward flow began again, and wrestled with me so that I could not
stem it, and together Dalfin and I, he with one arm round my
shoulder, and in the other hand the oar which he held and used as a
staff, fought against it until it was spent. The rounded pebbles
slipped and rolled under my feet as they were torn back to the sea,
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