oisterous, easy-going and dirty--and
quite human in general effect. They are much bigger than the Japanese,
and frequently very handsome from any point of view. The most surprising
thing is the number of those who look not merely intelligent but
intellectual among the laborers, such as some of the hotel waiters and
attendants. Our waiter is a rather feminine, ultra refined type, and
might be a poet. I noticed quite a number of the same Latin quarter
Paris type of artists among the teachers whom I addressed to-day. The
Japanese impressions are gradually sinking into perspective with
distance, and it is easy to see that the same qualities that make them
admirable are also the ones that irritate you. That they should have
made what they have out of that little and mountainous island is one of
the wonders of the world, but everything in themselves is a little
overmade, there seems to be a rule for everything, and admiring their
artistic effects one also sees how near art and the artificial are
together. So it is something of a relaxation to get among the easy-going
once more. Their slouchiness, however, will in the end get on one's
nerves quite as much as the "eternal" attention of the Japanese. One
more generalization borrowed from one of our Chinese friends here, and
I'm done. "The East economizes space and the West time"--that also is
much truer than most epigrams.

SHANGHAI, May 4.

I have seen a Chinese lady, small feet and all. We took dinner with her.
She did not come into the room until after dinner was over, having been
in the kitchen cooking it while the servant brought things in. She has
one of those placid faces which are round and plump and quite beautiful
in a way, a pretty complexion, and of course a slow, rocking, hobbling
way of walking. Yesterday after the lecture we went there again and she
showed us all over her flat. It is well kept, with not many conveniences
from our point of view, but I think it is regarded as quite modern here.
It has a staircase, and a little roof where they dry clothes or sit. The
bath is a tin tub, warmed by carrying water from the little stove like
our little laundry stoves. It has an outlet pipe to the ground, no
sewers as usual in the Orient. The kitchen has a little stove of iron
set up on boxes and they burn small pieces of wood. It has three
compartments, two big shallow iron pots for roasting and boiling and a
deep one in the middle for keeping the hot water for t