lk," and not discontented as at
first. We would get fresh air enough this winter, no doubt, to drive
away all remembrances of the air in the little steamer's cabin, which
was cold as well as foul. There were no windows or ports that we could
see; there was doubtless a closed skylight somewhere, but to keep warm
even in our berths required management. In my hand luggage I carried a
bright woolen Indian blanket, a souvenir of St. Michael the year before,
in which I now rolled myself, already dressed in my warmest clothing and
heavy coat.

A light-weight grey blanket was loaned me by the cook, who had purloined
it from the pilot's bunk, he being on duty and not needing it that
night. This I was rather chary of using, for reasons of my own, but it
was that or nothing, only the mattress being underneath. On my head I
wore a pink crocheted affair, called sometimes a "fascinator," which was
now used simply and solely for service, I assured my friends, and not
from any lighter motive,--but my feet! How I should keep them
comfortable while on board was a question. With my feet cold I would be
perfectly miserable, and although I wore wool hose and high, stout laced
boots, I soon found on going aboard the "Elk" that to be comfortable I
must make a change.

I said nothing, but turned the situation well over in mind. At last I
found a solution. Going to my bags once more, on the aside I drew out my
new reindeer skin muckluks, or high fur boots, and looked at them. What
enormous footgear, to be sure. Could I wear those things? I had put five
good, hard-earned dollars into them, and they were said to be warm and
very comfortable when worn properly, with hay in the bottoms, and Arctic
socks over one's hose, but I had no hay and could not get any.

I had the socks in my trunk, but that was in the hold of the ship, or
somewhere out of my reach. I held the muckluks in my hands, and slowly
turned them round. Suddenly a bright thought came. I would pull them on
over my shoes. I did it. They went on easily. I drew the strings
attached at the back of the ankle forward over the instep, crossed them,
carried them back, crossed them a second time and tied them in front, in
order to use up the strings so they would not trip me in walking. Just
below the knees I pulled a woolen drawstring which was run into the
green flannel, inch-wide heading, and tied this loosely; then I studied
them. Shades of my buried ancestry! What a fright! My own mother