ld be
allotted.

While in the neighbourhood of Penzance the visitor who is fortunate
enough to be a good sailor should not fail to make the trip to the
Scilly Isles, although the passage is generally a trying one. The
islands consist mainly of low rocks, covered with gorse and heather
where their slopes are not given over to flower growing, that great
industry of these solitary isles. The coastward sides of the downs
terminate in granitic rocks which are a terror to navigators. Even
under the guard of three lighthouses and a lightship, thousands of lives
have been lost on the Scillies, and there is a prodigious litter of
wreckage wedged in among the granite boulders. Probably the worst
disasters were the wreck of Sir Cloudesley Shovell's fleet in 1707, and
that of the _Schiller_ in 1875. Of the hundreds of lesser calamities
there is no record. St. Agnes is perhaps the worst offender, and the
lighthouse keeper there is a gloomy man. It has been fittingly said that
his landscape of rocks must be about as enlivening to him as a square
mile or so of tombstones.

Penzance itself is a town of many attractions of the civilized order,
and the whole of the neighbourhood is lovely. It is the most westerly
town in England, and one that has a good deal of ancient history. The
older part of the town, lying between Market Jew Street and the harbour,
has retained a good deal of its ancient domestic architecture, but the
churches have no features of any particular interest.

The fishing village of Newlyn is a picturesque but ill-built group of
old cottages, fish-cellars, bungalows, and artists' studios. As an art
centre it has played, and is still playing, a very considerable part,
while many of the native models of the place look out from gilded frames
in half the picture galleries of Europe. It must unquestionably be the
most painted spot in the British Isles, and it would be difficult to
find a single nook or corner that has not been depicted on paper or
canvas. One of the curious little streets bears the exotic name of "Rue
des Beaux Arts", a reminder of the fact that it was in a dwelling of
this street that Frank Bramley painted his dramatic picture "_A Hopeless
Dawn_", now in the Tate Gallery. There is a considerable artists' colony
still resident here, although a good many of those who first brought the
place into fame have migrated to pastures new, and particularly to the
neighbouring port of St. Ives. At the same time Newly