old ways. They had resumed
the Indian dress, which is much more becoming to them, as I think they
know, than that which had been imposed upon them. I saw no books. They
do not read any now, and they appear to be perfectly content with the
idle drudgery of their semi-savage condition. In time they will marry in
their tribe, and the school episode will be a thing of the past. But not
altogether. The pretty Josephine, who was our best cicerone about the
place, a girl of lovely eyes and modest mien, showed us with pride her
own room, or "house," as she called it, neat as could be, simply
furnished with an iron bedstead and snow-white cot, a mirror, chair, and
table, and a trunk, and some "advertising" prints on the walls. She said
that she was needed at home to cook for her aged mother, and her present
ambition was to make money enough by the sale of pottery and curios to
buy a cooking stove, so that she could cook more as the whites do. The
house-work of the family had mainly fallen upon her; but it was not
burdensome, I fancied, and she and the other girls of her age had
leisure to go to the station on the arrival of every train, in hope of
selling something to the passengers, and to sit on the rocks in the sun
and dream as maidens do. I fancy it would be better for Josephine and
for all the rest if there were no station and no passing trains. The
elder women were uniformly ugly, but not repulsive like the Mojaves; the
place swarmed with children, and the babies, aged women, and pleasing
young girls grouped most effectively on the roofs.

The whole community were very complaisant and friendly when we came to
know them well, which we did in the course of an hour, and they enjoyed
as much as we did the bargaining for pottery. They have for sale a great
quantity of small pieces, fantastic in form and brilliantly
colored--toys, in fact; but we found in their houses many beautiful jars
of large size and excellent shape, decorated most effectively. The
ordinary utensils for cooking and for cooling water are generally pretty
in design and painted artistically. Like the ancient Peruvians, they
make many vessels in the forms of beasts and birds. Some of the designs
of the decoration are highly conventionalized, and others are just in
the proper artistic line of the natural--a spray with a bird, or a
sunflower on its stalk. The ware is all unglazed, exceedingly light and
thin, and baked so hard that it has a metallic sound when stru