d
with trees of good height, and a quantity of brushwood below them. We
saw several wigwams among the trees, and two canoes hauled up on the
beach. Beyond the wood were ranges of high hills, the nearest ascending
almost precipitously from the water, while those further off were worthy
of the name of mountains. It was altogether a very beautiful and
attractive scene--the more so, that it was totally unexpected in that
region. No natives were visible, so we ran the boat on shore, and
landed. The wigwams were in shape like those of the North American
Indians composed of a number of long sticks stuck in the ground in a
circle, and bending inwards till their other ends met, and were secured
together with a band. Instead of being covered with birch bark, these
were thatched very neatly with dry grass or reeds, and formed very warm
abodes. In the centre a pile of ashes showed where their fires were
placed. Their canoes were very like those of North America, being built
of bark, with ribs neatly formed, and kept in shape by several beams
athwartships secured to the gunwale. Near the wigwams were two other
partly finished canoes. While we were examining these rude habitations
and means of locomotion, a shout from the two men left in the boat made
us look up, and in an opening in the wood we saw some dozen or more
savages advancing stealthily towards us. Mr Brand, the instant he saw
them, told us to fall back behind him; and he then advanced alone,
patting his stomach,--the sign of amity among these people. It is as
much as to say, I suppose, "I have had a good dinner, and I hope that
you have had one also." They, in return, all shouted and gesticulated
most vehemently, pointing to their mouths in their eagerness to speak,
not being aware, probably, that we did not understand a word they said;
however, at last they began to pat their stomachs, and then we knew that
all was right. Accordingly we advanced to meet them, patting our
stomachs with one hand, and holding out the other to grasp theirs. They
were of a brownish copper colour, well formed and athletic, with long
shaggy hair--their only clothing being a piece of skin thrown over one
shoulder. In such a climate as that of Terra del Fuego, their being
able to go without clothes shows that they must be of a very hardy
nature. We were soon surrounded by some thirty or more of these very
unprepossessing gentlemen, all talking most furiously to us or at us,
some pa