he mass was about to commence,
a great number of candles were lighted on the high altar and in the
side chapels, and the scene became more brilliant and animated. We
looked down upon a perfect sea of heads, the women all wearing the
national handkerchiefs, many of these of bright colours, and making
them conspicuous among the men, of whom there were also a very large
number.

"At length the organ struck up, the higher priests entered, wearing
their richest robes, followed by numerous attendants. Each bowed and
knelt as he passed the altar, and took his allotted place, and then
the service began. At one point, supposed to be the moment of our
Saviour's birth, there was quite an uproar. The people clapped their
hands, and stamped, and shouted, trumpets sounded, and the organ
pealed forth its loudest tones.

"Then there was a very sweet hymn-tune played, and some beautiful
voices sang Adeste Fideles, which was by far the most pleasing part of
the service to our minds. Next came the reading of the Gospel, with
much formality of kissing and bowing, and incensing; the book was
moved from side to side and from place to place; then one priest on
his knees held it up above his head, while another, sitting, read a
short passage, and a third came forward to the front of the enclosed
space near the altar, flinging the censer round and about. Then the
little bell tinkled, and all that mass of heads bowed down lower, the
Host was raised, the communion taken by the priests, and at one
o'clock all was over.

"We gladly regained the fresh air, which, though rather cold, was much
needed after the close atmosphere of the crowded cathedral. The moon
was very bright, and we hastened home with appetites sharpened by our
walk, for what proved to be a handsome dinner, rather than a _petit
souper_.

* * * * *

"For ourselves, we did not forget the old home custom of Christmas
decorations, and took some pains to dress our _salon_ with evergreens,
which we brought down from the hills the previous day. Although we had
neither holly nor mistletoe, we found good substitutes for them in the
elegant-leaved lentiscus, the tree heath and sweetly perfumed myrtle;
while round the mirror and a picture of the Virgin on the opposite
wall we twined garlands of the graceful sarsaparilla. The whole looked
extremely pretty, and gave quite a festive appearance to the room.

"On Christmas Day we joined some English friends for a walk, about