eing the curious umbrella-bird secured to a perch
projecting from the wall, I asked him to bring it, as I wanted to show
it to Ellen. He quickly understood me, and taking it down, again
fastened up its beak, and brought it along perched on his shoulder. The
whole remaining population of the village came down to the water to see
us embark. We took off our hats to Oria, who scarcely seemed to
understand the compliment.

Our raft was soon launched with their aid, and, greatly to our
satisfaction, floated buoyantly. We got on board, and shoved off into
the middle of the channel. The water was fat too deep to allow our
poles to be of any use. Duppo, however, showed that he well knew the
use of a paddle. Taking one in his hand, he sat down on one side of the
raft, while Arthur sat on the other, and I stood astern to steer. The
current was sluggish, and did not help us much. We therefore had to
exert ourselves vigorously. The igarape soon widened out into a broad
lake-like expanse. We could distinguish the channel, however, from its
being free of reeds, which appeared in all directions in the other
parts, forming thick broad clumps like islands. From amidst them
numerous water-fowl rose up as we passed. Now and then an alligator
poked up his ugly snout. Numerous tortoises and other water-creatures
were seen swimming about. Others which rose near us, alarmed at our
appearance, made off to a distance, and allowed us to proceed unimpeded.

We were delighted with the progress we made, and went paddling on as if
we had been long accustomed to the work. We kept up most of the time a
conversation with Duppo, although it must be owned that we could
understand but little of what he said, while he had equal difficulty in
comprehending us. We asked him several questions about his family. I
told him that he must bring Oria down to see my sister, as I was sure
she would be glad to make her acquaintance. I was, however, not very
certain whether he understood me. He was evidently a quick, sagacious
fellow; though his manners, like most of the Indians we had met, were
subdued and quiet.

As we were paddling on, we were almost startled by hearing a sound like
a bell tolling in the midst of the forest. It ceased, and we paddled
on, when again it struck our ears loud and clear. Again it came within
the space of a minute, and we almost expected to see some church steeple
peeping forth through an opening in the primeval for