ck brought us
on the edge of a steep descent, and before us lay the winding Khor of
Ariab, with its mass of green fresh foliage throwing gentle shadows on
the silver sand of its dry watercourse. It seemed an age as we
traversed that extended khor before our guide pointed to a large tree
on our right, and said "Moja." We dismounted under the shadow of its
branches, and found awaiting us the sheikh of the valley, who pressed
our hands and greeted us in a most friendly way; but I was almost mad
with thirst, and asked for the well. I was taken to a mound a few
yards from our retreat, on the sides of which were two or three clay
scoop-outs, all dry but one, and this held a few gallons of tepid
water, from which camels had been drinking. The man took a gourd, half
filled it, and offered it to me to drink. "But the well, the well!" I
cried. "Oh! that's a little higher up," said he, and he led me to a
wide revetted well about fifty feet deep, at the bottom of which,
reflecting the sky, shone the water like a mirror. "That's the water I
want," said I. The man shook his head. "You cannot drink of that till
your baggage camels arrive; we have no means of reaching it." I almost
groaned aloud, and with the agony of the Ancient Mariner could well
cry, "Water, water everywhere, but not a drop to drink." There was no
help for it. I made my way back to the shadow of the tree, threw
myself on my blanket, and, racked with thirst, tried to wait patiently
for the coming of the camel men. Fortunately, the sheikh of the well
was inspired with hospitality, and after a while brought us some fresh
milk in a metal wash basin, a utensil which he evidently produced in
honor of our visit. I took a long draught, and though it was
associated with native ablutions, I shall always remember it with the
greatest satisfaction. We camped for 24 hours in the sylvan vicinity
of Ariab Wells--stretched ourselves in the broad shadows of its mimosa
trees, and drank of and bathed in its sweet, cool waters.

This long rest improved our camels wonderfully. By the bye, there was
much speculation between two of our party regarding the behavior of
these curious animals on arriving at the wells after their long
waterless march. A general impression was that for the last few miles
the camels would race for the waters, and thwart all endeavors to hold
them in. My experience of the strange beast was otherwise, and
subsequent events proved that I was right. When the Hamleh,