sat so straight and looked so stiff,
but I wondered no longer when the stout Cretans stepped into the
shafts, one before and the other behind, and started off. The motion
is a peculiar shake, as if you went two steps forward and one back. It
struck me as so ludicrous, my sitting bolt upright like a doll in my
little house, that I drew the curtains and had a good laugh at my
own expense. Half an hour's ride brought us to the pasha's house in
Stamboul--a large wooden building with closely-latticed windows. We
were received at the door by a tall Ethiopian, who conducted us across
a court to the harem. Here a slave took our wraps, and we passed into
a little reception-room. A heavy rug of bright colors covered the
centre of the floor, and the only furniture was the divans around the
sides. The pasha's two wives, having been apprised of our intended
visit, were waiting to receive us. Madame L---- was an old friend and
warmly welcomed, and as she spoke Turkish the conversation was brisk.
She presented me, and we all curled ourselves up on the divans.
Servants brought tobacco in little embroidered bags and small sheets
of rice paper, and rolling up some cigarettes, soon all were
smoking. The pasha is an "old-style" Turk, and frowns on all European
innovations, and his large household is conducted on the old-fashioned
principles of his forefathers. His two wives were young and very
attractive women. One, with a pale clear complexion, dark hair and
eyes, quite came up to my idea of an Oriental beauty. Not content,
however, with her good looks, she had her eyebrows darkened, while a
delicate black line under her eyes and a little well-applied rouge
and powder (I regret to confess) made her at a little distance a still
more brilliant beauty. I doubt if any women understand the use of
cosmetics as well as these harem ladies. Her dress was a bright-cherry
silk, the waist cut low in front, the skirt reaching to her knees.
Trousers of the same and slippers to match completed her costume. The
other wife was equally attractive, with lovely blue eyes and soft wavy
hair. She was dressed in a white Brousa silk waist, richly embroidered
with crimson and gold braid, blue silk skirt, white trousers and
yellow slippers. They both had on a great deal of jewelry. Several
sets, I should think, were disposed about their persons with great
effect, though not in what we should consider very good taste. Being
only able to wear one pair of earrings, th