ir clumsy two-wheeled carts, picturesque in
costumes that are ragged and soiled from long service. Rich
layer-cakes of preserves, having almond icing with fruits and
liquor-filled ornaments of sugar on top, are frequently sent from
friend to friend for dinner.

In Seville, and possibly in other places, the people hurry to the
cathedral early in the afternoon in order to secure good places before
the high altar from which to view the _Siexes_, or dances. Yes,
dances! This ceremony takes place about five o'clock just as the
daylight fades and night draws near. Ten choristers and dancers,
indiscriminately termed _Siexes_, appear before the altar clad in the
costume of Seventeenth-Century pages, and reverently and with great
earnestness sing and dance an old-time minuet, with castanet
accompaniment, of course. The opening song is in honor of the Virgin,
beginning:

"Hail, O Virgin, most pure and beautiful."

Among the ancients dancing was a part of religious services, but it is
now seldom seen in churches. This Christmas dance, given in a
beautiful cathedral just at the close of day, is a very impressive
ceremony and forms a fitting close to the Spanish Christmas, which is
so largely made up of customs peculiar to ancient and modern races.

In every part of Spain song and dance form an important part of the
festivities of Yule-tide, which lasts two weeks, although the laboring
class observe but two days of pleasure. At the palace the King holds a
reception on New Year's, not for the public generally, but for the
diplomats and grandees.

The higher circles of society observe New Year as a time of exchanging
calls and visiting, feasting and merrymaking. At the banquets of the
wealthy every possible delicacy in the way of food is temptingly
displayed, and great elegance in dress indulged in by the ladies, who
wear their finest gowns and adorn themselves in priceless jewels and
rare laces. But there is so much etiquette to be observed among this
class of Spaniards that one looks for the real enjoyment of the season
among the common classes.

In some parts of Spain bull-fights are given as late as December, but
cold weather has a softening effect on the poor bulls and makes them
less ferocious, so unless the season proves unusually warm that
favorite entertainment has to be abandoned for a time. Meanwhile in
the streets and homes one may often see a father on all fours enacting
the infuriated bull for his little sons