transparent fat, soft
breast-bone, tender flesh, leg joints which will break by the weight of
the bird, fresh colored and brittle beaks, and windpipes that break when
pressed between the thumb and fore-finger. They are best in fall and
winter.

Young pigeons have light red flesh upon the breast, and full, fresh
colored legs; when the legs are thin, and the breast is very dark, the
birds are old. Squabs are tender and delicious.

The giblets of poultry consist of the head, neck, wings, feet, gizzard,
heart, and liver; and make good soup, fricassees, pies, and various
_entrees_, or side dishes.

=Game.=--Fine game birds are always heavy for their size; the flesh of the
breast is firm and plump, the skin clear; and if a few feathers be
plucked from the inside of the leg and around the vent, the flesh of
freshly killed birds will be fat and fresh colored; if it is dark, and
discolored, the game has been hung a long time. The wings of good ducks,
geese, pheasants, and woodcock are tender to the touch; the tips of the
long wing feathers of partridges are pointed in young birds, and round
in old ones. Quail, snipe, and small birds should have full tender
breasts.

Young rabbits and hares have short necks, thick knees, and forepaws
which can be easily broken; old ones are very poor.

Buffalo meat is somewhat similar in appearance to beef, save that the
flesh is darker, and the fat redder; it is tender and juicy when it has
been kept long enough, say about two months in winter; the tongue, when
cured, is excellent.

Venison should be tender, and very fat, or it will be dry and tasteless.

Bear meat, when fat and tender, is savory and nourishing.

=Fish.=--Sea fish, and those which live in both salt and fresh water, such
as salmon, shad, and smelts, are the finest flavored; the muddy taste of
some fresh water species can be overcome by soaking them in cold water
and salt for two hours or more before cooking; all kinds are best just
before spawning, the flesh becoming poor and watery after that period.
Fresh fish have firm flesh, rigid fins, bright, clear eyes, and ruddy
gills.

Oysters, clams, scallops, and mussels, should be eaten very fresh, as
they soon lose their flavor after being removed from the shell.

Lobsters and crabs should be chosen by their brightness of color, lively
movement, and great weight in proportion to their size.

=Vegetables.=--All juicy vegetables should be very fresh and crisp; and if
a li