opos_ of the calling hour, it may be mentioned here that this is a
social rock on which many English people strike. I use this nautical
simile advisedly since, not so very long ago, no less a person than a
British Admiral wishing to follow the hours to which he was accustomed
paid his official call on the Dutch Naval Commander at five o'clock. The
Dutch Admiral, who was not then dressed, and did not intend to dress
until seven o'clock, declined to receive him at such an unusual hour,
and the question of dress, always one of the first importance in the
British Navy, then became rather a burning one, until tactful mediators
paved the way for a more successful visit. Whereas, in the East, English
people maintain their usual habits and customs--did not our grandfathers
wear tall hats when pig-sticking in India?--the Dutch in Java adopt the
habits and the clothes they consider most fitting for the climate. It
is not intended to imply that both are loose, though certainly the
former are somewhat relaxed. No visitor to the country is competent to
give a judgment for or against the manners he finds there. X. longed to
impress this on more than one tourist whom he met on his travels.

Few Dutch ladies in Java mind being seen in what to us appears
undress--a sarong and kabaya--and frequently, when without guests, it is
the custom to dine in this scanty apparel. In consequence there is a
dislike to dining out, which involves the wearing of European clothes in
all their fashionable tightness, and many a story is told in Batavia of
sudden illness amongst lady guests during the evening--illness easily
attributable to the unusual compression of garments, worn only on such
rare occasions.

There is seldom necessity for dressing since Europeans scarcely ever
call in Java--of ladies it may be said they never call--though in the
mornings they drive round in covered carriages visiting their intimate
friends, clad in the skirts of the country so universally adopted.

CHAPTER XI.

AN UNTIMELY CALL.

It was this same custom which caused discomfiture to X. on the following
day, when having received the promised special permit, a document
calling upon all officials to assist him, in the name of the
Governor-General himself, he decided that it would be only right that he
should present himself at the house of the ruler who had signed it, and
in token of gratitude and respect inscribe his name in his book. As the
traveller had no int