mantown wool, cream-white or any color desired, and bone hook
size 4, or a hook large enough to carry the wool easily. The sweater is
crocheted in the length in two parts, and is joined in center of back.

Make a chain of 160 stitches, turn.

1. A double in each stitch of chain, chain 1, turn.

2. A double in each double, working in back vein of stitch to form a
rib.

3. Make star-stitches along the rib, thus: Chain 3, draw a loop through
2d and 3d stitches of chain, counting from hook, and a loop through each
of 2 doubles; take up wool and draw through the 5 stitches on needle,
chain 1 to close the star, draw a loop through eye of star just made
(under the 1 chain), another through the back part of last perpendicular
loop of the same star, and a loop through each of 2 doubles, close the
star by working off all the loops, chain 1, and repeat to end of row,
turn.

Make another rib of doubles by working across twice, then a row of
star-stitches, and continue until you have 4 rows of stars and 5 ribs;
on next row work 39 stars, then a rib, and continue until you have 3
rows of 39 star-stitches each. Work a row of doubles, break and fasten
the wool securely. Bear in mind that the star-stitches must be all
worked on the right side; the 1st row will come so, but the 2d will not
unless the wool is broken off at the end of 2d rib and fastened in at
other end again; then chain 3, and proceed with the row.

Beginning at the neck-end of the front strip, leave the 1st 6 stitches
(equal to 3 stars) and work to end of row in star-stitch; make a rib as
directed. Work 2 more rows of stars, with the ribs alternating, leaving
1 star less at the top or neck-end each time.

Work the other half to correspond, then join in center of the back with
single crochet, putting hook through a loop of each part. If carefully
done the joining will not be discernible. Join under arms, also, leaving
the opening for armholes.

For the border: Work 10 rows of double crochet, a double in each stitch,
around the entire garment, fronts, bottom and neck, widening at each of
the lower corners in each row to form the miter. Or, if preferred, work
around neck and down fronts first, completing the border; then work
around the bottom and across the front border. The widening for miter is
neater. The buttonholes are made in the 5th row of front; chain 5, miss
5, and repeat, making as many openings as desired, at equal distances.
In working back, next row,