able; the rays quickly faded from the side
of the luminary once more given to view; and again a soft daylight, like
the gradual spreading of a fine dawn, chased away the night shadows that
had thus prematurely usurped day's fair dominion.
From every quarter was now heard the cheerful crowing of the "early
cock;" the fowls came briskly forth, pluming themselves in the
recovered sunshine; the tramp of numerous passers-by was again echoing
from the street; and again the cheerful buzz of human voices filled the
air.
This was the first time I had ever witnessed a total eclipse; and I
confess I fully shared the general interest with which all about me
appeared inspired. Upon the covered gallery fronting the south, the
inmates of the hotel were all assembled; whilst, in the yard below, were
congregated the servants and household slaves of the family, with
upturned anxious faces, now watching the progress of the phenomenon, and
now casting their eyes upon the group of white men, to gather from their
looks the effect likely to follow this hiding of the sun, in whose
presence the negro alone may be said to live.
Although the recovered luminary shone bright as before its obscuration,
it was with diminished power, for it continued chilly during the rest of
the day and night; nor was it before noon on the 1st of December that
the mercury recovered from its sudden depression.
_Dec. 8th._--The President's message on the subject of the indemnity due
from France to America was received in this city, where it appears to
produce a startling effect: I should say, ten voices out of every eleven
I have heard speak on the subject, deprecate any idea of a rupture with
France. The merchants and travellers of that nation, of whom there are
numbers here, appear somewhat indignant at the tone assumed by the chief
of the government, which they affirm to be insulting to the nation, with
which a Frenchman, in all places, whatever may be his political
sentiments or present condition, never fails completely to identify
himself. This respect for France is a gallant sentiment of theirs, and
shows particularly well when they are far from the country whose honour
they assert, standing a few amongst many.
_Dec. 9th._--I engaged a pilot-boat to run down the coast south as far
as Savannah, which, although some hundred miles out of my line, I had
set down as a place to be seen. My Charleston managers, two worthy
industrious souls, hearing of my route
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