direction,
ascending a hilly plateau 3,200 feet above sea-level. Here we observed
the first orchids, yellow in colour and deliciously fragrant, and in
the canon below we met the first palms. The rocks continued to show
volcanic and metamorphic formation.

About 130 miles south of Bisbee we caught the first glimpse of the
Sierra Madre rising above the foot-hills, some forty miles off
to the east. Its lofty mountain peaks basking in the clear blue
ether, beckoned to us inspiringly and raised our expectations of
success. This, then, was the region we were to explore! Little did I
think then that it would shelter me for several years. It looked so
near and was yet so far, and as we travelled on southward the sight
of it was soon lost again.

We gradually descended to the Bavispe River, a name here given to the
Yaqui River, in accordance with the custom which the Mexicans have
in common with people in other parts of the world of giving different
names to one river in its course through different districts. It was
a treat to catch the first sight of the magnificent sheet of water
the river forms near the town of Opoto, as it slowly wends its way
through green shrubs. It is the largest river of the west coast of
Mexico and is here about 1,400 feet above the level of the sea.

Following the river to the south, we soon passed the towns of Guasavas
and Granados. The vegetation along the river banks is in strong
contrast to the land in general. Here are fields of sugar-cane, and
in the orchards, orange, fig, and lime trees grow in abundance. The
country, though fertile, is dry, and the heat is great. Even at the
end of October the thermometer sometimes registered 100 deg. F. in the
shade. The grass had become dry and scarce, and it was difficult to
keep the animals in satisfactory condition.

This territory was once in the possession of the large tribe of
Opata Indians, who are now civilised. They have lost their language,
religion, and traditions, dress like the Mexicans, and in appearance
are in no way distinguishable from the labouring class of Mexico with
which they are thoroughly merged through frequent intermarriages.

As we passed the hamlets, our large party and outfit created quite a
sensation and aroused the people from the uneventful routine of their
daily existence. They used to surround my tent, especially mornings
and evenings, as if an auction had been going on inside. Some of
them wanted to sell things that