ic companion to
whom one may exclaim: "Isn't that grand!"

We entered Switzerland at Basel, then journeyed on to Zurich. This is
Switzerland's largest city, and in my opinion, it is one of the most
beautiful large cities I have ever seen. Of course, I hunted up the
Church headquarters, where I was fortunate to meet a friend I had known
in Salt Lake. He kindly gave me the information I desired about the
city and even took a few hours off duty to accompany me to points of
interest.

That evening we went to the Opera house, where Faust was being played. I
had a great desire to see Faust in the original, and though my German is
not up to Goethe's standard, I could follow the plot somewhat, and I was
eagerly watching for Margaret to make her appearance on the stage. After
a long evening, the curtain went down, and all the people got up and
left--yet no Margaret had appeared. I was puzzled; but my friend
explained that the play was only half over. If I desired to see the
rest, I would have to come back the following evening. What do you think
of that? Well, I didn't go back--I went to Lucerne, next morning.

I wanted to see the Alps, of course, and we got a distant view only of
them from Zurich. Here, at Lucerne, we have them in all their grand
beauty.

I don't mind admitting to you that my purse would not allow my stopping
longer at the Schweizerhof, than to merely take a good look at the
exterior. I had with me the Lucerne elders' address, and easily found
them. They directed me to a friend who had cheap rooms, and it is here I
am writing to you. The view is just as fine from my window as from the
big hotel--nay, finer, for I am higher up; and after all, Lucy, the five
francs' out-look on a beautiful world is enjoyed quite as much as if it
cost fifteen. I can see the cap or the collar of Mt. Pilatus better
perhaps than the fat, cross, silk-clad lady I saw on the boat
yesterday, can see them. (By "cap" is meant a cloud resting on top, by
"collar" the cloud encircling Pilatus' head.)

This brings me to my trip on Lake Lucerne day before yesterday. We
started early. The tourist season has hardly begun yet, so we were not
crowded. There was rain threatening. The mountain tops were hidden by
clouds, and the prospect was not assuring. However, by the time we
landed at Brunnen, the clouds had lifted, the sun came out, and the day
became pleasantly warm. From Brunnen, it was our plan to walk along the
Axenstrasse, to Fluelen,