aboard, would
present 'Susy' with a handsome reward in the form of a gaudy dress or a
year's provisions.

Start from a road-house was made at dawn, when the clouds still hung
heavy on the mountains and the peaks were all reflected in the glacial
waters. The passengers tumbled dishevelled from log-walled rooms where
the beds were bench berths, and ate breakfast in a {105} dining-hall
where the seats were hewn logs. The fare consisted of ham fried in
slabs, eggs ancient and transformed to leather in lard, slapjacks,
known as 'Rocky Mountain dead shot,' in maple syrup that never saw a
maple tree and was black as a pot, and potatoes in soggy pyramids. Yet
so keen was the mountain air, so stimulating the ozone of the resinous
hemlock forests, that the most fastidious traveller felt he had fared
sumptuously, and gaily paid the two-fifty for the meal. Perhaps there
was time to wash in the common tin basin at the door, where the towel
always bore evidence of patronage; perhaps not; anyhow, no matter.
Washing was only a trivial incident of mountain travel in those days.

The passenger jumped for a place in the coach; the long whip cracked.
The horses sprang forward; and away the stage rattled round curves
where a hind wheel would try to go over the edge--only the driver
didn't let it; down embankments where any normal wagon would have
upset, but this one didn't; up sharp grades where no horses ought to be
driven at a trot, but where the six persisted in going at a gallop!
The passenger didn't mind the jolting that almost dislocated his spine.
He didn't mind the negro who sat on {106} one side of him or the fat
squaw who sat on the other. He was thankful not to be held up by
highwaymen, or dumped into the wild cataract of waters below. Outside
was a changing panorama of mountain and canyon, with a world of forests
and lakes. Inside was a drama of human nature to outdo any
curtain-raiser he had ever witnessed--a baronet who had lost in the
game and was going home penniless, perhaps earning his way by helping
with the horses; an outworn actress who had been trying her luck at the
dance-halls; a gambler pretending that he was a millionaire; a
saloon-keeper with a few thousands in his pockets and a diamond in his
shirt the size of a pebble; a tenderfoot rigged out as a veteran, with
buckskin coat, a belt full of artillery, fearfully and wonderfully made
new high-boots, and a devil-may-care air that deceived no one but
himsel