y were on the top of a wave, the
mate shouted:
"There are breakers ahead."
Every head was lifted, and when the boat rose again on a wave they could
see a line of white foam ahead of them as far on either side as the eye
could see through the mist.
"Keep a look-out for a break in the line, Wilcox," the mate shouted.
The man forward waved his hand, and, holding to the mast, stood up. A
minute later he turned and shouted something to the man next to him, and
the message was passed from mouth to mouth to the mate.
"It is not a reef, sir; it is a low sandy coast."
"Take your places on the thwarts," the mate shouted, "and get your oars
out."
The men did so. Then, in a momentary lull in the blast, the officer said:
"Get ready to pull for your lives when I give the word. Our only chance is
to go in on the top of a wave. The instant we touch the ground and she
loses her way, jump out and stick your heels in the sand."
They approached the edge of the surf rapidly.
"Stick your oars in deep and check her way," the mate shouted.
He stood up in the boat when they were within fifty yards of the point
where the waves curled over and fell with a roar like thunder on the
beach. Two or three waves passed under her, then he saw one of greater
height approaching.
"Row, lads! row for your lives!"
The wind helping them, they flew forward. The wave rose higher and higher
behind them--it looked almost as steep as a wall--and an involuntary cry
broke from several of the men as the boat's stern rose up it.
"Row! row!" the mate shouted.
But six strokes were pulled and then the wave fell over with a crash, and
in a moment they were shooting along with the speed of an arrow in the
midst of a mass of seething foam.
"Get ready to jump!" the mate shouted.
His voice was lost, but the action which accompanied it was understood.
They were flying up a steep slope, when suddenly the motion became slower,
then there was a bump.
"Hold to her, lads, if you can; every man spring overboard."
For a moment they seemed drawn backwards by the rush of the water, then
the boat became fixed, and a moment later the water left them.
"Now, all together before the next wave reaches her."
With a united effort they lifted and ran the boat her own length further
up. The next wave barely reached the boat's stern. Before another came she
was well up on the sand. Then the mate pointed upwards. The roar of the
surf and the howl of th
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