tration: Convenient Pyrographer's Table]

Any pyrographer will appreciate the construction of the table and
cabinet as illustrated. Anyone doing burnt wood work will know the
annoyance of building up a steady support for the arm to the level of
the article on which the work is to be done. The size of this table may
be made to suit the surroundings and the space of the builder. Figure 1
shows the table with a slot cut in the side support in which to place
the thumb screw of the bracket as shown on top of the table. It will be
noticed, Fig. 2, that while both drawer and cabinet are available for
storing the apparatus, they are not in the way of the operator while
sitting at his work; the drawer overhangs the knees and the cabinet is
far enough back not to interfere with sitting up close to the work. The
bracket shelf slides in the slot at the side of the table, and is
fastened to any height by the thumb screw There is also a smaller slide
bracket on the shelf to clamp irregular objects to the side of the
table. The thumb screws, hinges and drawer pulls can be purchased from
any hardware store. When the table is not in use for pyrography it can
be used for a writing table or a round top provided and attached on
which to play games. When used for this purpose the bracket, as well as
the pyrographic outfit, is stowed away in the cabinet as shown in Fig.
3.

[Illustration: Storage for Apparatus]

MISSION STAINS

What is mission oak stain? There are many on the market, with hardly two
alike in tone. The true mission oak stain may be said to show a dull
gray, the flakes showing a reddish tint, while the grain of the wood
will be almost a dead black. To produce such a stain take 1 lb. of drop
black in oil and 1/2 oz, of rose pink in oil, adding a gill of best
japan drier, thinning with three half-pints of turpentine. This will
make about 1 qt. of stain. Use these proportions for a larger quantity
of stain. Strain it through cheese cloth. Japan colors will give a
quicker drying stain than that made with oil colors, and in this case
omit the japan and add a little varnish to bind it.

One of the most popular of all the fancy oaks has been that known as
Flemish, and this in spite of its very somber color, says Wood Craft.
There are several ways of producing Flemish finish; you can fill the
wood with a paste filler strained with raw umber, and when dry apply a
stain of transparent flat raw umber, and for the darker shad