h we had a couple of days' fair wind at
starting, we were met in the very chops of the channel by hard-hearted
southerly and south-westerly winds, which tried our patience sorely.
On the evening of the tenth day we caught a glimpse of the north coast
of Spain; and the rugged shore of Galicia was the last which most of
us saw of Europe for many years. It was not till after a fortnight's
hard struggling against these tiresome south-westers that we anchored
in Funchal Roads, having by the way dropped several of our convoy.
These stray sheep came in during the few days we remained to refresh
ourselves at this most charming of resting-places. After nearly a
week's enjoyment, we proceeded on our course to the southward; within
three days we came in sight of Palma, the most northern of the Canary
Island group. It was thirty miles distant in the south-east quarter;
and Teneriffe, the sea "monarch of mountains," lay too far off for us
to perceive even his "diadem of snow," which at that season (April), I
presume, he always wears. Some years after the period in question,
when I paid him a visit, in the month of August, the very tip-top was
bare, and the thermometer at 70 deg..
Under more favourable circumstances, we might possibly have seen
Teneriffe from the Volage, for our distance was not above a hundred
miles. This, however, it must be owned, is a long way to see the land,
unless it form a continuous ridge of great elevation, like the Andes;
and even then, to be distinguished well, it requires to be interposed
between a bright sky and the ship. At day-break, and for about half an
hour before sunrise, if the weather be clear, even sharp peaks, like
the cone of Teneriffe, may be seen with a degree of distinctness which
is very remarkable, when viewed from the distance of a hundred miles
and upwards, as I have several times experienced when navigating in
the Pacific. But when the full splendour of the sun's light begins to
fill the air, these gigantic forms gradually fade away amongst the
clouds, or melt into the sky, even when no clouds are visible. I have
likewise been told, that, in sailing directly away from Teneriffe (or
other high insulated peaks), and keeping the eye pretty constantly
fixed in the proper direction, it may be retained in sight at much
greater distance than it can be discovered on approaching. I am
disposed to consider this very probable, but have never had a good
opportunity of trying the experiment.
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