were
told that if they wished to go to the Pitti balls they must notify to
the English minister their desire to be presented to the grand duke.
In return, they received an intimation that they must be in the
ante-room of the suite of receiving-rooms at eight o'clock on such an
evening--ladies in ball-dress; gentlemen in evening-dress with white
neckcloths. It may be observed here that this matter of the white
neckcloth was the only point insisted on. Both ladies and gentlemen
were allowed to exercise the utmost latitude of private judgment as to
what constituted "ball-dress" and "evening-dress." I have seen a black
stuff gown fitting closely round the throat pass muster for the first,
and a gray frockcoat for the second. But the officials at the door
would refuse to admit a man with a black neckerchief; and I once saw a
man thus rejected retire a few steps into a corridor, whip off the
offending black silk and put it in his pocket, obtain a fragment of
white tape from some portion of a lady's dress, put _that_ round his
shirt-collar, and then again presenting himself be recognized by the
officials as complying with the exigencies of etiquette. The aspirants
to "court society" having assembled, from twenty to fifty, perhaps, in
number, according as it was earlier or later in the season, presently
the minister bustled in, and with a hurried "Now then!" led his motley
flock into the presence-chamber, where they were formed into line.
Much about the same moment (for the grand duke had "the royal
civility" of punctuality, and rarely kept people waiting) His Serene
Imperial and Royal Highness came shambling into the room in the
white-and-gold uniform of an Austrian general officer, and looking
very much as if he had just been roused out of profound slumber, and
had not yet quite collected his senses. Walking as if he had two odd
legs, which had never been put to work together before, he came to a
standstill in front of the row of presentees. If there was any person
of any sort of distinction among them, the minister whispered a word
or two in the grand ducal ear, and motioned the lion to come forward.
His Imperial and Royal Highness, after one glance of helpless
suffering at the stranger, fixed his gaze on his own boots. A long
pause ensued, during which courtly etiquette forbade the stranger to
utter a word. At last His Highness shifted his weight on to his left
foot, hung his head down on his shoulder on the same side, and s