t Department. Both Bonnaz (Corneli) and machine
hand embroidery must be felt in the muscles before they can be carried
out on the material, therefore the work with the pencil in making
designs which are to be carried out on the machine is of first
importance. Free-hand designs must be made first in large, free
movements on the machine until the arm muscles are thoroughly familiar
with the curve, sweep, and feeling to be executed. After mastery of
movement and sweep are acquired, the same designs may be reduced in size
ten or twenty times and the pupil will still work them out in perfect
rhythm. After the mastery of movement is acquired, the cording,
braiding, and three-thread attachment work are easily learned by a pupil
who has the necessary mechanical sense. The course of Bonnaz (Corneli)
work covers: chain stitch, lettering, applique work, cording, braiding,
three-thread work.

Machine hand embroidery should be given as a supplementary course to
Bonnaz (Corneli) embroidery. It gives excellent training in design and
color work.

Special trade machine straw sewing should also be taken up after the
regular course in operating. It gives splendid exercise for quick
handling of material, but makes a poor foundation of itself on which to
build a painstaking, expert, all-round operator. Speed is the first
requisite in getting a hat properly shaped, as the straw braid is flying
through the machine at the rate of four thousand stitches a minute;
hence the general operating is given first to the pupil to train her in
the requisite neatness. As straw-sewing has long slack seasons, the
operator can during such times return to the regular operating.

DRESSMAKING DEPARTMENT

Aim

The aim of the Dressmaking Department is to train girls in the elements
of the dressmaking trade, in order to enable them to immediately secure
employment as improvers and finishers or as assistants on skirts,
waists, and sleeves, and to give them a preparation which will help them
eventually to rise to positions of skill and responsibility. The
training eliminates the errand girl and apprenticeship stages, and makes
possible a living wage at the start. The result is accomplished in from
nine to seventeen months, the time depending entirely upon the
capability of the girl, her physical condition, her application to her
work, her regularity of attendance, and her previous training.

Classes

The department is divided into three sections: (1) Th