and swung,
And over the waves its warning rung."
And where the pirate, out of pure malice, "To vex the abbott of
Aberbrothok," cut the bell from its buoy only to be lost himself on the
reef a year later. The abbey was founded by William the Lion in 1178,
but war, fire and fanaticism have left it sadly fragmentary. Now it is
the charge of the town, but the elements continue to war upon it and the
brittle red sandstone of which it is built shows deeply the wear of the
sea wind.
Dundee, no longer the "Bonnie Dundee" of the old ballad, is a great
straggling manufacturing city, whose ancient landmarks have been almost
swept away. Its churches are modern, its one remaining gateway of
doubtful antiquity, and there is little in the city itself to detain the
tourist. If its points of interest are too few to warrant a stay, its
hotels--should the one given in the guide-book and also locally reputed
to be the best, really merit this distinction--will hardly prove an
attraction. It is a large, six-story building, fairly good-looking from
the outside, but inside dirty and dilapidated, with ill-furnished and
uncomfortable rooms. When we inquired of the manageress as to what might
be of especial interest in Dundee, she considered awhile and finally
suggested--the cemetery. From our hotel window we had a fine view of the
broad estuary of the Tay with its great bridge, said to be the longest
in the world. It recalled the previous Tay bridge, which fell in a storm
in 1879, carrying down a train, from which not a single one of the
seventy or more passengers escaped. Around Dundee is crowded much of
historic Scotland, and many excursions worth the while may be made from
the city by those whose time permits.
From Dundee an excellent road leads to Stirling by the way of Perth.
There is no more beautiful section in Scotland than this, though its
beauty is not the rugged scenery of the Highlands. Low hills, rising
above the wooded valleys, with clear streams winding through them;
unusually prosperous-looking farm-houses; and frequent historic ruins
and places--all combine to make the forty or fifty miles a delightful
drive. We did not pause at Perth, a city with a long line of
traditions, nor at Dunblane, with its severely plain cathedral founded
in 1100 but recently restored.
Stirling, the ancient capital, with its famous castle, its memories of
early kings, of Wallace, Bruce and of Mary Stuart, and with its
wonderfully beautiful
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