th mud and dust. We were bent with the
packs upon our shoulders, and walked with very pronounced limps.
Everywhere we were recognized as "Americanos," although it seemed to me
we looked more like Italian organ-grinders. To the day of my death I
shall never cease to be grateful to the people of Puerto Principe for
the admirable courtesy and good manners exhibited to us. They did not
stone nor jeer us; they did not even openly stare at the odd spectacle
we presented. Even the children did not laugh at us, and the dogs kindly
refrained from barking at our heels. At all times during our stay of
several days we were treated with perfect courtesy and a respectful
consideration which our personal appearance scarcely warranted and
certainly did not invite. The Spaniards and Cubans seem to associate
even the roughest dressed American with money and good-nature. The
humbler children would gather about us, pleading, "Americano, gimme a
centavo!" while little tots of four years would say in good English and
the sweetest of voices, "Good-by, my frien'!" It was the soldiers who
had taught them this. Their parents rarely spoke any English whatever.

We stayed at the Gran Hotel, said by some to be the best in the city.
It was none too good, but not bad as Cuban hotels run. The terms were
moderate, $1.50 per day, for two meals and lodging. A third meal could
not be obtained for love nor money. I bought mine at street stands or in
a cafe. Not a word of English was spoken at this hotel.

I cannot describe Puerto Principe at any length. It is an old Spanish
city in architecture and customs, and might well have been transplanted
from mediaeval Spain. As a matter of fact, it was moved here centuries
ago from the north coast of Cuba, near the present site of Nuevitas, the
change being made to escape the incursions of pirates. It has a
population of about forty-seven thousand, and is the third largest city
in Cuba, and the most populous inland town. Many of the residents are
wealthy and aristocratic, and the people, generally speaking, are
fine-looking and very well dressed. I several times visited the chief
plaza, which had lately taken the new name of Agramonte, and watched
with interest the handsome men and beautiful senoritas who promenaded
there. I was told that late in the afternoon and early in the evening
the young people of the best families in the city walked in the plaza.
They were certainly elegantly dressed and most decorous in be