t was all that the ponies could do to
drag up the empty carts. Having gained the top of the first hill, they
came upon a level plateau, resembling the bleak Scottish moorlands,
which terminated in a range of wild snow-capped mountains. After
resting the ponies a few minutes, they set off at a brisk trot, and were
soon across the level ground. Ascending to another plateau, they
crossed it, and finally reached the higher mountain-range of the
interior. Here they crossed several patches of snow which the summer
heat had not yet been able to melt away.

As soon as they were fairly amongst the mountains, the roads became
horrible, and it was a matter of wonder that the springs of the carts
were not broken. Toiling up hills, and dashing down on the other
side,--crashing over fallen rocks, and shaving the edge of yawning gulfs
and precipices,--thus they advanced till evening, through a country
which was the picture of barrenness and desolation.

Rocks were the chief feature of the scenery. They had got to such a
height above the level of the sea that there were no pines, only a few
stunted birch-trees. There was little soil, but that little was well
clothed with vegetation. Rocky mountains, rocky masses, and rocky glens
everywhere; but as they went farther inland the scenery improved a
little.

Soon they found that instead of travelling inland they had been only
crossing one of these broad necks of high land which separate the fords
of Norway from each other, and ere long they came in sight of the sea,
with precipitous mountains dipping into it.

Here, on a green slope facing the fiord, were seen the conical tents of
the strange people whom they had travelled so far to visit.

The inhabitants of Lapland are a distinct race from their southern
neighbours the Norwegians, in size, intelligence, civilisation, and
manner of life. They are as near as may be _savages_ in appearance, and
in some of their habits, insomuch that on first visiting them a stranger
might be apt to set them down as _real_ savages. Yet they are many
degrees higher than the savage, such as the Red Indian of North America.
The Lapp is as dirty as the Indian, and dwells in as poor a hut, and
lives in as simple a style; but he is rich in _property_--his property
being herds of reindeer, while the Indian depends entirely on the chase
for wealth and subsistence. Then again, although the Lapp has nothing
worthy of the name of a house, he is an educat