of Serbs and Wallacks crowded into the
room in a state of excited curiosity, and it was with difficulty that I
defended my tea-machine from absolute dismemberment. Though my horse and
I had done a good day's work, I determined to push on to Uibanya, for it
seemed to be not much more than a two hours' walk; moreover, I had been
warned of the bad reputation of the people in the village. I had heard
it was not an uncommon trick with them to steal a traveller's horse in
the night, and quietly ship him over the Danube into Servia. I had no
fancy for losing my possessions in this way, so altogether it seemed
better to go on.

When I started with the guide I had hired from Svenica, there was still
a good half-hour before sunset. We commenced at once climbing a very
steep and stony path, where I had to lead my horse; indeed at times it
was very much like getting my horse over the top of a high-pitched roof,
if such an exploit were possible. We shortly lost all trace of a path. I
turned several times to look at the fine glimpses of the Danube far
below us. Arriving at a fringe of wood, I was not a little surprised to
see emerge from thence a sturdy Wallack, carrying the usual long staff,
armed with an axe at one end. I say surprised, because he at once joined
in with us, and though I had not seen him during our climb, I had my
strong suspicions that he had followed us all the way. My guide spoke a
little German, and I demanded of him in a sharp tone what the other
fellow meant by joining us. My guide answered that he was afraid to
return alone, for that presently we should get into "the forest, where
it would be as dark as a cave," and he had asked the other man to come
with us from Svenica. As according to his own account he had traversed
the forest for nineteen years, I thought he might very well have gone
back alone; besides, if there was any truth in what he said, why should
he have made a mystery about his companion till we were some way on our
journey?

We were now on the outskirts of a thick forest, the sun had set in
great beauty, but every hue of colour had now faded from "the trailing
clouds of glory;" faded, indeed, so quickly that before the fact of
twilight could be realised, it was already night! It was literally dark
as a cave when we penetrated into the forest. My guide had a lantern,
which he lighted; for it would, indeed, have been impossible to make any
progress without the light. Though we were again in a pa