ross the isthmus, and which has seven gates, over each of which was
formerly placed a tower.

Leaving the castle, we proceeded along the great road which runs
parallel to the venerable and highly interesting triple walls, said to
have been begun by Constantine, and enlarged by the second Theodosius.
They consist of alternate courses of large flat bricks and stones, in
some parts perfect, with their battlements and towers; in others partly
destroyed by earthquakes or time--the whole rendered venerable by thick
ivy or shading trees. The height of the walls is such, that, when near
them, the town is completely hid; and as the ditches are well cultivated
as gardens or orchards, and the country beyond is clear of houses, it is
difficult to fancy one's self so near the thickly populated city, once
the mistress of the eastern world. The distance across the isthmus to
the Golden Horn, or harbour, is about four miles, and the walls are
uninterrupted by the before-mentioned gates. At about two-thirds of the
distance, we came to Baloucli, where, in the ruins of a chapel dedicated
by Justinian to the Virgin, is a fountain or well of excellent cold
water, said to contain fish, black on one side and red on the other, or,
according to tradition, half fried.

The Golden Horn, or harbour, terminates by the Valley of Sweet Waters,
the sides of which are adorned with pleasure-grounds, and an imperial
kiosk, near which, with extremely bad taste, art and expense have been
exerted to the utmost to constrain and prune nature, so as to destroy
the luxuriance and wildness of the rivulet and its banks, by giving them
the appearance of a straight canal, passing through an avenue of formal
trees, and occasionally over flights of marble steps, intended to
represent cataracts. On gala days, this spot is the scene of festivity
and enjoyment for persons of every sect; and before the last dispersion
and persecution of the Greeks, is said, in consequence of the number of
their women who frequented it, to have presented extraordinary animation
and attraction. The sultan was often to be found enjoying the sight.
Beyond this valley is another, where his horses are turned out to graze
in the spring, and which takes place with extraordinary ceremony and
pomp. So much consequence was formerly attached to the noble animals,
that petitioners address themselves to the imperial stirrup. Between
the Valley of the Sweet Waters and the walls, is the village of Eyub,