brilliant with gold, filled with the best
performers whom the world can furnish, and comfortable beyond all
opera-houses known to men must be liable to a few such misfortunes. Who
is not ashamed to accept, I have said, having lately been there and
thoroughly enjoyed myself? But I did not put myself in the way of having
to cut my throat, on which account I felt, as I came out, that I had
been somewhat shabby. I was ashamed in that I had not put a few
napoleons down on the table. Conscience had prevented me, and a wish to
keep my money. But should not conscience have kept me away from all that
happiness for which I had not paid? I had not thought of it before I
went to Monte Carlo, but I am inclined now to advise others to stay
away, or else to put down half a napoleon, at any rate, as the price of
a ticket. The place is not overcrowded, because the conscience of many
is keener than was mine.

We ought to be grateful to the august sovereign of Monaco in that he
enabled an enterprising individual to keep open for us in so brilliant a
fashion the last public gambling-house in Europe. The principality is
but large enough to contain the court of the sovereign which is held in
the little town of Monaco, and the establishment of the last of
legitimate gamblers which is maintained at Monte Carlo. If the report of
the world does not malign the prince, he lives, as does the gambler, out
of the spoil taken from the gamblers. He is to be seen in his royal
carriage going forth with his royal consort,--and very royal he looks!
His little teacup of a kingdom,--or rather a roll of French bread, for it
is crusty and picturesque,--is now surrounded by France. There is Nice
away to the west, and Mentone to the east, and the whole kingdom lies
within the compass of a walk. Mentone, in France, at any rate, is within
five miles of the monarch's residence. How happy it is that there should
be so blessed a spot left in tranquillity on the earth's surface!

But on the present occasion Monte Carlo was not in all its grandeur,
because of the heat of the weather. Another month, and English lords,
and English members of Parliament, and English barristers would be
there,--all men, for instance, who could afford to be indifferent as to
their character for a month,--and the place would be quite alive with
music, cards, and dice. At present men of business only flocked to its
halls, eagerly intent on making money, though, alas! almost all doomed
to los