a journey of four hours
we arrived at a large Malay village near the mouth of the Sarekei
River. Here I disembarked and sought out the chief of the village
and demanded the loan of two canoes, with some men to paddle them,
and in return I offered liberal payment. Accordingly, an hour after my
arrival I found myself with all my belongings and servants on board
the two canoes, with a crew of nine Malays. Soon after leaving the
Malay village we branched off to the left up the Sarekei River. It
was very monotonous at first, as the giant plumes of the _nipa_ palm
hid everything from my view. My Malays worked hard at their paddles,
and late in the afternoon we left the main Sarekei River and paddled
up a small and extremely narrow stream. There we found ourselves in
the depth of a most luxuriant vegetation. We were in a regular tunnel
formed by arching ferns and orchid-laden trees, giant _pandanus,_
various palms and arborescent ferns and _caladiums._ Here grew the
largest _crinum_ lilies I had ever seen. They literally towered over
me, and the sweet-scented white and pink flowers grew in huge bunches
on stems nearly as thick as my arm.

After the bright sun on the main river, the dark, gloomy depths of this
side-stream were very striking. It was so narrow that sometimes the
vegetation on both sides was forced into the canoes, and the "atap"
(palm-thatched) roof of my canoe came in for severe treatment as it
brushed against prickly _pandanus_ and thorny rattans.

The entrance to this stream was completely hidden from view, and no
one but these Malays, who had been up here before, trading with the
Dayaks, could have discovered it. I had told the Malay chief that I
wished to visit a Dayak village where no white man had ever been and
where they were head-hunters. He had smiled slyly and nodded as if he
understood. Thereupon he said, "Baik (good), Tuan," and said he would
help me. Just as darkness was setting in we arrived at a Dayak village,
consisting of one very long house, which I afterwards found to exceed
two hundred feet in length. It was situated about one hundred yards
from the stream. No sooner had we sighted it than the air resounded
with the loud beating of large gongs and plenty of shouting. There
was a great commotion among the Dayaks.

I at first felt doubtful as to the kind of reception I should get,
and immediately made my way to the house with Dubi, who explained
to the Dayak chief that I was no government o