very marketable, as it does not travel
well, nor last long. But in cider counties it is sometimes mixed with
apples, to make mulberry cider. The trees bear forcing in pots, and give
good fruit in July. They will bear a high temperature. The fruit mixed
with apples in a tart or pudding is described as "delicious." If it is
gathered perfectly dry, it can be used to make a jelly in a similar
manner to red currant jelly, and used for light puddings, etc. Mulberry
syrup is said to be good for sore throat; mulberry water to be
refreshing as a drink in cases of fever, mulberry vinegar to be
efficacious for medicinal purposes just as raspberry vinegar, which it
somewhat resembles. "Cassell's Dictionary of Cookery" explains these
details, and also how to make mulberry preserve.

APPENDIX

THE PROPAGATION OF THE PEAR

It is not proposed to enter into elaborate details with reference to the
propagation of the pear, for the general cultivator is far more
concerned with and interested in its successful treatment when
established than before, for he can now obtain prepared trees so readily
and cheaply from nurserymen, who propagate them by the thousand, that it
is not at all worth his while to attempt their propagation himself.

Pear trees are propagated either by budding or grafting. The first
mentioned process is performed during July and August, and grafting is
done in the month of March.

Budding consists in removing a bud from one tree and inserting it under
the bark of the stock or branch of another tree. This work is done in
the months of July and August, because the bark is during that time more
easily raised, and a union more easily effected between the cambium (an
inner growing layer) of both bud and stock. The buds inserted are taken
from the current year's shoots, choosing shoots that are firm and
short-jointed. After having removed a shoot, say nine or ten inches
long, and cut the leaves to half their lengths, next proceed to cut out
a bud. This is done by inserting a knife below the bud at a distance of
about half an inch, and then drawing it upwards behind the bud, emerging
again about half an inch above the bud. The cut must, of course, turn
inwards--that is to say, towards the centre of the shoot. When removed,
the bud therefore will be about an inch long, with the "eye" in the
centre, and with a certain amount of wood attached to it behind. This
should be removed, and the best way to do it is to insert