of three oranges and two lemons, cover with two
quarts of gin, then add syrup and leave it a fortnight, as for curacoa.
Stir syrup and spirit together, leave it another day, run it through a
jelly bag, and bottle. Ready to use in ten days.

NOYEAU.--Blanch and pound two pounds of bitter almonds, or four of peach
kernels; put to them a gallon of spirit or brandy, two pounds of white
sugar candy--or sugar will do--a grated nutmeg, and a pod of vanilla;
leave it three weeks covered close, then filter and bottle; but do not
use it for three months. To be used with caution.

CHAPTER XIII.

FRENCH CANDY AT HOME.

THIS chapter I shall have to make one of recipes chiefly, for it treats
of a branch of cooking not usually found in cookery books, or at least
there is seldom anything on the art of confectionery beyond molasses or
cream taffy and nougat. These, therefore, I shall not touch upon, but
rather show you how to make the expensive French candies.

The great art of making these exquisite candies is in boiling the sugar,
and it is an art easily acquired with patience.

Put into a marbleized saucepan (by long experience in sugar-boiling I
find them less likely to burn even than brass, and I keep one for the
purpose) one pound of sugar and half a pint of water; when it has boiled
ten minutes begin to try it; have a bowl of water with a piece of ice
near you, and drop it from the end of a spoon. When it falls to the
bottom, and you can take it up and make it into a softish ball (not at
all sticky) between your thumb and finger, it is at the right point;
remove it from the fire to a cold place; when cool, if perfectly right,
a thin jelly-like film will be over the surface, _not a sugary one_; if
it is sugary, and you want your candy very creamy, you must add a few
spoonfuls of water, return to the fire and boil again, going through
the same process of trying it. You must be careful that there is not the
least inclination to be brittle in the ball of candy you take from the
water; if so, it is boiled a degree too high; put a little water to
bring it back again, and try once more. A speck of cream of tartar is
useful in checking a tendency in the syrup to go to sugar. When you have
your sugar boiled just right set it to cool, and when you can bear your
finger in it, begin to beat it with a spoon; in ten minutes it will be a
white paste resembling lard, which you will find you can work like bread
dough. This, then, is