RDNER (Berlin: 1898. J. Springer).

~THE MERCERISATION OF COTTON.~

This monograph of some 150 pages is chiefly devoted to the patent
literature of the subject. The chemical and physical modifications of
the cotton substance under the action of strong alkaline lye, were set
forth by Mercer in 1844-5, and there has resulted from subsequent
investigations but little increase in our knowledge of the fundamental
facts. The treatment was industrially developed by Mercer in certain
directions, chiefly (1) for preparing webs of cloth required to stand
considerable strain, and (2) for producing crepon effects by local or
topical action of the alkali. But the results achieved awakened but a
transitory interest, and the matter passed into oblivion; so much so,
indeed, that a German patent [No. 30,966] was granted in 1884 to the
Messrs. Depouilly for crepon effects due to the differential shrinkage
of fabrics under mercerisation, by processes and treatments long
previously described by Mercer. Such effects have had a considerable
vogue in recent years, but it was not until the discovery of the
lustreing effect resulting from the association of the mercerising
actions with the condition of strain or tension of the yarn or fabric
that the industry in 'mercerised' goods was started on the lines which
have led to the present colossal development. The merit of this
discovery is now generally recognised as belonging to Thomas and Prevost
of Crefeld, notwithstanding that priority of patent right belongs to the
English technologist, H. A. Lowe.

The author critically discusses the grounds of the now celebrated patent
controversy, arising out of the conflict of the claims of German patent
85,564/1895 of the former, and English patent 4452/1890 of the latter.
The author concludes that Lowe's specification undoubtedly describes the
lustreing effect of mercerising in much more definite terms than that of
Thomas and Prevost. These inventors, on the other hand, realised the
effect industrially, which Lowe certainly failed to do, as evidenced by
his allowing the patent to lapse. As an explanation of his failure, the
author suggests that Lowe did not sufficiently extend his observations
to goods made from Egyptian and other long-stapled cottons, in which
class only are the full effects of the added lustre obtained.

Following these original patents are the specifications of a number of
inventions which, however, are of insignificant moment so