emfontein it is a singularly unpretentious dwelling
and was in keeping rather with the economic habits, than with the
private wealth, or official status, of its chief occupant. British
sentinels had already been posted all about the place, and on the
verandah sat a British officer with a long row of mausers lying at his
feet. There too, one on each side of the main entrance, crouched
Kruger's famous marble lions, silently watching that day's novel
proceedings. Not even the presence of those men in khaki, nor that sad
array of surrendered rifles, sufficed to draw from those stony
guardians of their master's home so much as a muffled growl. They are
believed to be of British origin, and I suspect that, so far as their
nature permits, they cherish British sympathies; for they certainly
showed no signs of lamenting over the ignoble departure of their lord.
All regardless of the griefs of his deserted lady, they still placidly
licked their paws; and as I cast on them a parting glance they gave to
me, or seemed to, a knowing wink!

[Illustration: _From a photograph by Mr Jones, Pretoria_

Dopper Church Opposite President Kruger's House Built by the Late
President.]

Precisely opposite the Residency is the handsome Dopper Church,
wherein the President regularly worshipped, and not infrequently
himself ministered in holy things. The church is nearly new, and like
much else in Pretoria is still unfinished. The four dials have indeed
been duly placed on the four faces of the clock tower; but in that
tower there is as yet no clock; and round those clock dials there move
no clock hands. No wonder Pretoria with its dominant Dopper Church,
and its still more decidedly dominant Dopper President, mistook the
true hour of its destiny, and madly made war precisely when peace
was easiest of attainment. Kruger, dim-eyed and old, lived face to
face continually with clock dials that betokened no progress, but,
merely mocked the enquiring gaze. Which thing, the Chelsea Sage would
say, was symbolical and significant of much!

[Sidenote: "_Resurgam._"]

In the centre of the before-mentioned Square is the large and usually
crowded Dutch Reformed Church, doomed long ago, we were told, to be
removed because of its exceeding unsightliness. Throughout the
Transvaal in every town and hamlet, the House of God is invariably the
central building, as also it is the centre of the most potent
influence. In both Republics the minister was emphatically