n the twentieth century.]

Bogle would have proceeded to Lhasa, the home of the Grand Lama, but
this permission was refused, and he had to return to India with the
information he had collected.

The next Englishman to enter Tibet was Thomas Manning, the first to
reach the sacred city of Lhasa. He was a private adventurer, who had
lived in China and learnt the language. Attended by a Chinese servant,
and wearing a flowing beard of singular length, he left Calcutta,
crossed into Bhutan, and arrived at the Tibetan border in October 1811.
Then he crossed the Brahmaputra in a large ferry-boat, and arrived
within seven miles of Lhasa. On 9th December the first European entered
the sacred city since the expulsion of the Capuchin friars. The view
of the famous Potala, the lofty towering palace, filled him with
admiration, but the city of which Europe, knowing nothing, had exalted
into a magnificent place, was very disappointing.

"We passed under a large gateway," says Manning, "whose gilded
ornaments were so ill-fixed that some leaned one way and some another.
The road as it winds round the palace is royally broad; it swarmed
with monks, and beggars were basking in the sun. There is nothing
striking in its appearance; the habitations are begrimed with smut
and dirt. The avenues are full of dogs--in short, everything seems
mean and gloomy. Having provided himself with a proper hat, Manning
went to the Potala to salute the Grand Lama, taking with him a pair
of brass candlesticks with two wax candles, some 'genuine Smith's
lavender water, and a good store of Nankin tea, which is a rare delicacy
at Lhasa. Ushered into the presence of the Grand Lama, a child of seven,
he touched his head three times on the floor, after the custom of the
country, and, taking off his hat, knelt to be blessed by the little
monarch.' He had the simple and unaffected manners of a well-educated
princely child. His face was affectingly beautiful--his beautiful
mouth was perpetually unbending into a graceful smile, which
illuminated his whole countenance."

Here Manning spent four months, at the end of which time he was recalled
from Pekin, and reluctantly he was obliged to return the way he came.

The next man to reach the forbidden city was a Jesuit missionary, the
Abbe Huc, who reached Lhasa in 1846 from China. He had adopted the
dress of the Tibetan Lama--the yellow cap and gown--and he piloted
his little caravan across the wide steppes on horseba