, the trees were drooping and black, and the country people
themselves looked as if they had been held in water for the last
six months. A heavy and unceasing rain came on. The clouds grew
black and seemed to settle, everything had a ghastly and dismal
appearance. I met a man, and asked him if it always rained here.
'Ou ay, sir,' replied he, 'it's the parish o' _Rayne_.' I was
content with the answer, and asked nothing more. In a condition you
may easily imagine, I reached Elgin and dried myself. The rain
stopped, but the clouds did not clear. I went and visited the
cathedral, and wandered about the ruins for an hour or two. It is a
noble and beautiful building, but I will not begin to speak about
it, as the post leaves in a few minutes. On Saturday afternoon I
left Elgin for Forres, with the hope of better weather. During the
walk I could hardly persuade myself I was out of Aberdeenshire, the
country is so very like, but it is rather flatter. Next morning was
clear and cloudless, and the sun shone bright over a country
drenched and covered with water. I wished that day to reach
Inverness, but a new difficulty appeared. I was told that the
Findhorn was so swollen that no mortal man could get across. I saw
the boatman going to his ferry-house, and I followed him to see how
the matter stood. I soon came to a deep and rapid sweep of water,
which appeared to spread far beyond two narrow banks which might
have formerly bounded it. This I thought to be the Findhorn, but
ere I went many paces farther another sight met my eyes--the real
river itself dashing through the glen with an awful majesty, and
carrying roots, trees, and herbage of every description hurriedly
over its broad breast. In the midst of this scene of devastation
appeared the ruins of a noble bridge, nothing but the piers
remaining, and these dashing to pieces in the furious current. The
stream I had seen at first was the river flowing down the road. The
river fell in the evening, and I crossed the ferry. I had two days
of most delightful weather, and yesterday evening I had a sunset
and moonlight walk by the side of Loch Ness, among the most noble
scenery I ever beheld. The sky was perfectly clear, and without a
single cloud.
"I must now finish, as the post is going away. If you see Joseph
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