wed Solomon's example, and floated rafts of timber down to
Jaffa or north to Haifa, I was unable to ascertain. At any rate there
seemed to be no other way to get their timber to the markets.

I wonder how many people are aware of the extent to which the Germans
carried their policy of "peaceful penetration" in Palestine and Syria?
Whenever in our wanderings we came across a neat, modern town or village,
be sure that the inhabitants were mainly German; that in many cities they
were also Jews does not, I suggest, make a great deal of difference.

The language of all was German, and their extraordinary thoroughness in
devising means to overcome the climatic and other difficulties of the
country was also German, with the result that they waxed fat and
prosperous, while the people indigenous to the soil scraped a precarious
living by tending the flocks and tilling the land of the interlopers. All
through the country from Gaza, where there was actually a German school, to
Haifa, of which the largest and wealthiest portion of the population was
German, you will find these colonies occupying almost invariably the most
commanding sites and situated in the midst of the most fertile tracts of
land.

It was, I think, by contrast with these prosperous places that the ruins of
Palestine and Syria took on an added desolation and loneliness: you could
with difficulty visualise the past splendours of a crumbling mass of mighty
pillars when on the hill opposite stood a town of bijou villas with modern
appurtenances.

A mournful example of this was at Athlit, the remains of whose greatness
lay half-buried almost at the foot of Mt. Carmel. For a brief moment you
could capture the spirit of a bygone age; the massive walls seemed to ring
again with the clash of arms and the shouts of that little band of
Crusaders who were fighting their last fight in their last stronghold on
holy soil. Then your eyes lit on the great barrack of a German hotel on the
top of Carmel, and the great fortress dissolved into a crumbling, shapeless
pile at your feet.

Beyond Athlit lay the port of Haifa, a town of considerable size, which
contained the largest German colony in the country. The road leading into
and out of Haifa is typical of the Eastern mind; that is, it is anything
but straight.

After you have left what might be called the west-end of the town, which is
inhabited by the Germans, the road winds interminably through the native
quarter apparent