the Deutsches Tages Zefamg, came at the last
minute and asked if he might accompany me, and I gladly consented,
as he would be another witness. We started early on July 31st.
Neither of us had the least idea of what was going on outside. It
was a terrible ride. All along the track were camps of miserable
beings, who hailed us as angels come to save them. Poor young
Gorlitz, who had never done refugee work, was almost broken down by
it. He cried at intervals: "It is the work of Huns--Huns. We must
expose the Greeks to all Europe." At Skozi we found an almost
desperate Kaimmakam trying to cope with 7,000 refugees in most
miserable condition. He warned us to be careful, as the Greeks were
not far off, and were still burning villages. We promised to make a
united appeal in Berlin and in London, and do all we could to rouse
European indignation. Gfirlitz was so upset he could not sleep, and
looked bad when we started at dawn next day. We reached the last
Albanian outpost beyond Thembla, and there left our horses. Gorlitz
and I then scrambled along the mountain till on the opposite side of
a deep valley we could see clearly with his field-glasses the camp
of the Greek outposts, their tents and the men in khaki uniforms. It
was a regular camp with military tents, and completely refuted the
Greek lie that "Epirote insurgents" and not Greek regulars were
concerned.

We had attained our object. All the mountain side was covered with
black patches. The fields of the standing corn we had hoped to reap,
the Greeks had burnt to ensure the starvation of the population. It
was growing late. To advance further would mean we could not get
back that night. We might also be arrested and detained too long to
be able to act efficiently. We decided to return to Thembla, and
next day make a forced ride to Valona. Starting about 5 a.m. we
arrived tired and dirty at Balona rather after 8 p.m., and
dismounted at my inn. Gorlitz said he would sup with me. Returning
to the dining-room after a "wash and brush up," I found him
collapsed with his head in his arms on the table. "What is the
matter? Are you ill?" I asked anxiously. He looked up with horror on
his face, and half-stunned.

"Russia has mobilized, and we have mobilized, too. They have all
gone!" he said. I was thunderstruck. All the Germans had left
Valona. Possibly the steamboat service would cease. Gorlitz was in
despair, as if he could not get away he might be reckoned a
deserter.