nd their hair either reddish or
auburn, and its dangling masses added much to the wildness of their
aspect. Some of them wore mustaches and beards, but nature had
apparently denied the majority such hirsute signs of manhood.
The gait or bearing of the Laps is indescribably clumsy, when they are
walking on level ground, and as unsteady as that of a person under the
influence of liquor; but they appear the reverse of awkward when engaged
in the avocations incident to their primitive life. They are exceedingly
phlegmatic in temperament, greedy, avaricious, suspicious, very indolent
and filthy, and by no means celebrated for strict adherence to truth.
The Nordlanders one and all spoke of them, in answer to my questions,
with mingled distrust and contempt, and my own limited experiences most
assuredly did not tend much toward impressing me with a more favorable
opinion. The countenances of most of the Laps present a combination of
stolidity, low cunning, and obstinacy, so as to be decidedly repulsive;
yet it is undeniably true, that crimes attended with violence rarely
occur among them, though I take that as no decided proof of the mildness
of their disposition. They also are strict in their attendance at
church, whenever opportunity serves; but their conduct immediately on
quitting the sacred edifice, too frequently evinces that hardly a spark
of genuine religion has lightened up the darkness of their souls.
Drunkenness has long been, and is still their besetting sin, but I am
assured that this failing, so common to all uncivilized races, is
rapidly decreasing.
The tribe of Laps whom I am particularly describing were not Norwegian
but Swedish Laps, and for a number of years have regularly resorted to
Tromsdal, as affording a very fine pasturage for their herds, as well as
being in the immediate vicinity of salt water, it being absolutely
necessary for the herd to be driven to the sea-shore during the fervid
summer season, to avoid the deadly pests of musquitoes and other
insects, and to be within the cooling influence of the sea-breezes.
The herd was now driven within the inclosure, and all outlets secured. I
stood in the midst of the animated, jostling mass of reins, Laps, and
dogs. I found myself naturally an object of curiosity to the tribe, who
questioned the youth and girl, whom I had accompanied to the spot,
concerning me; and, from the glances the Laps cast on me and exchanged
with one another, it was clear that
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