f some two thousand inhabitants, stands a stone,
which marks the spot where Leopold first greeted the chivalrous
Sobiesky,--not with the ardour which might have been expected from one
in his situation, but coldly and ceremoniously, as if the king, who
came to save, were sufficiently honoured by the notice of the emperor
whom he had delivered. Next came we to Fischamend, where the traveller
will do well to halt, if it be only that he may delight himself, as we
did, with the magnificent scene which wooes his gaze from the summit of
the scaur that overhangs the Danube. I do not think that I ever beheld
a panorama of the sort which enchanted me more. We were elevated,
perhaps, three hundred feet above the bed of the river. Its broad, but
not limpid waters, measuring, perhaps, half a mile across, laved the
very base of the precipice, and swept along by their current a rude
barge or two, the only productions of man's industry and skill that
broke in upon their loneliness. Beyond was a wide plain, magnificently
wooded, with here and there a village, looking forth from its covering
of green boughs; while, up and down, the eye rested, either upon a
continuance of the same bold scaur; or, more attractive still, on the
advanced guard of those mountains amid which I and my fellow-traveller
had resolved to make our way. Then there were tower and castle crowning
the far-off rocks; there were rich vineyards, closing in to the very
brink on which we stood; and, as if to complete the picture, a herd of
dun-coloured cattle, oppressed with the excessive sultriness of the
day, descended, through a sort of ravine, in a long line, and stood to
cool themselves in the Danube. Altogether it was as fair a landscape as
the eye of the painter would desire to behold; and we did not leave it,
till a few fruitless efforts had been made to transfer some, at least,
of its most attractive features to a blank leaf in my journal book.

After leaving Fischamend we passed in succession Regelsbrunn, Deutsch
Altenburg, and Hainburg, near the former of which the attention is
arrested by what may easily be mistaken for the ruins of a city. It
proved, however, on examination, to be the commencement of an ancient
wall, which runs from Regelsbrunn all the way to the Neusiedler See; of
which the origin is lost in the mists of antiquity, but which is
generally supposed to have been thrown up by the Romans. There are
still the remains of towers here and there, which g