reat deal more besides; but, from what
I heard, I don't think his information was very valuable.

I was treated by General Kelly and all his officers with the greatest
good-nature and courtesy, although I had certainly come among them under
circumstances suspicious, to say the least. I felt quite sorry that they
should be opposed to my Southern friends, and I regretted still more
that they should be obliged to serve with or under a Butler, a Milroy,
or even a Hooker. I took leave of them at six o'clock; and I can truly
say that the only Federal officers I have ever come in contact with were
gentlemen.

We had got four miles beyond Hancock, when the tire of one of our wheels
came off, and we had to stop for a night at a farmhouse. I had supper
with the farmer and his labourers, who had just come in from the fields,
and the supper was much superior to that which can be procured at the
first hotel at Richmond. All were violent Unionists, and perfectly under
the impression that the rebels were totally demoralised, and about to
lay down their arms. Of course I held my tongue, and gave no one reason
to suppose that I had ever been in rebeldom.

[65] This tooth-brush in the button-hole is a very common custom, and
has a most quaint effect.

* * * * *

_10th July_ (Friday).--The drive from Hancock to Cumberland is a very
mountainous forty-four miles--total distance from Hagerstown, sixty-six
miles. We met with no further adventure on the road, although the people
were very inquisitive, but I never opened my mouth. One woman in
particular, who kept a toll-bar, thrust her ugly old head out of an
upper window, and yelled out, "Air they a-fixin' for another battle out
there?" jerking her head in the direction of Hagerstown. The driver
replied that, although the bunch of rebels there was pretty big, yet he
could not answer for their fixing arrangements, which he afterwards
explained to me meant digging fortifications.

We arrived at Cumberland at 7 P.M. This is a great coal place, and a few
weeks ago it was touched up by "Imboden," who burnt a lot of coal
barges, which has rendered the people rabid against the Rebs. I started
by stage for Johnstown at 8.30 P.M.

* * * * *

_11th July_ (Saturday).--I hope I may never for my sins be again
condemned to travel for thirty hours in an American stage on a used-up
plank road. We changed carriages at Somerset. All my fell