ly in front
rises the lordly Peak, whilst in the foreground are vineyards, cottages,
and palm-trees; in the centre stands La Villa, the upper town of Oratava,
encircled with gardens; on the right lies a rich slope running down to
the sea which bounds the prospect on that side; and on the left rise
rocky mountains, for the greater part clothed with wood.

We now spurred our horses on and, leaving the guides behind, soon reached
La Villa, accompanied by a countryman who had joined us upon a pony; but,
on getting into the town, the melancholy truth rushed upon my
recollection that we could not speak Spanish: had we remained with our
guides this would not much have signified, for they had been told at
Santa Cruz to take us to a hotel.

EMBARRASSMENTS ON ARRIVAL THERE.

Nothing remained now but to do our best to open a communication; we
accordingly accosted a variety of individuals in English, French,
Italian, German--but in vain. Spanish alone was understood or spoken
here; our friend, the countryman, stuck to us most nobly, he understood
us not a bit better than the rest but saw that we were in distress and
would not desert us.

We at last deliberately halted under a house where we could get a little
shade, for the sun was intensely hot and, a crowd having soon collected,
we harangued them alternately and received long answers in reply; but,
although able to make out a great deal of what they said, we could not
get them to understand a single word on our part. At length kind fate
sent the guides to our rescue and they led us off direct to the hotel.

This however brought only partial relief to our wants; we opened our
mouths, and pointed down our throats. So much was understood and a
chicken instantly killed. We laid our heads upon a table, feigning sleep,
and were shown to a wretched room; but here all converse terminated. Mr.
Lushington desired to ascend the Peak therefore it became necessary that
we should hit upon some means of making them comprehend this; but all
efforts were in vain. At length they proposed to send for an interpreter,
which was accordingly done; but he was at dinner, and could not then
come.

At last the interpreter arrived, a Spanish Don who had been for some
years resident in a mercantile house in New York; he was very dirty, but
good-natured, and soon made the necessary arrangements for Mr.
Lushington; who for eight dollars was to be provided with a pony, a
sumpter mule, provisions and guid