most fascinating of all lands to an enthusiast even now, when we are
assured that the Epyornis, the mammoth of birds, is extinct. At that time
there was no good reason to doubt the unanimous assertion of the natives
that it still lived. Crossley was so confident that he neglected to buy
eggs badly shattered, waiting for perfect specimens. His scruples were
'bad business' for Mr. Cutter, as that gentleman lived to see, but they
appeared judicious at the time. Fragments of Epyornis egg, slung on cords,
were the vessels generally used in some parts for carrying water--are
still perhaps. Besides this, endless marvels were reported, some of which
have been secured in these days. Briefly, the young man was determined to
go, and Mr. Cutter gave him a commission.

Thus Leboeuf made one of M. Humblot's guests at Tamatave. Another was
Mr. Wilson, the only orchid collector there; for M. Humblot did not feel
much interest in those plants, I believe, at the time. I have not been
able to learn anything about Wilson's antecedents. His diary, upon which
this narrative is framed, was lying about at Tamatave for years; we may
conclude, perhaps, that the French Consul did not know to whom it should
be forwarded--there was no English Consul. Probably Wilson travelled on
his own account; certainly none of the great orchid merchants employed
him. He was young and inexperienced; glad to attach himself, no doubt, to
a big and self-confident old hand like Leboeuf.

Some weeks or months afterwards we find the pair at a large village called
Malela, which lies at the foot of Ambohimiangavo, apparently a well-known
mountain. Ellis mentions it, I observe, but only by name, as the richest
iron district of the Central Provinces. They had had some trouble on the
way. Among the hints and instructions which Crossley furnished, one in
especial counselled Leboeuf to abstain from shooting in the
neighbourhood of houses. Each tribe, he wrote, holds some living creature
sacred--it may be a beast or a bird, a reptile, or even an insect. 'These
must not be hurt within the territory of such tribe; the natives will
readily inform you which they are. But, in addition, each village commonly
has its sacred creature, and it will be highly dangerous to shoot until
you have identified the object. As you do not speak the language you had
very much better make it a rule not to shoot anything on cultivated
ground.'

This was not a man to heed fantastic warnings, but he