n to their humble lot. I only saw the dirt, and
smelt all the bad smells, and heard how bad most of the young ones
were to all the poor old people. "Cela mange comme quatre, et cela
n'est plus bon a rien," I heard one woman remark casually to her poor
old father sitting huddled up in a heap near the fire. I don't know,
either, whether they liked to have us come. What suited them best was
to send the children to the chateau. They always got a meal and a warm
jacket and petticoat.

[Illustration: Peasant women.]

V

CEREMONIES AND FESTIVALS

We were very particular about attending all important ceremonies at La
Ferte, as we rarely went to church there except on great occasions. We
had our service regularly at the chateau every Sunday morning. All the
servants, except ours, were Protestants, Swiss generally, and very
respectable they looked--all the women in black dresses and white
caps--when they assembled in M. A.'s library, sitting on cane chairs near
the door.

Some, in fact most, Protestants in France attach enormous importance to
having all their household Protestant. A friend of mine, a Protestant,
having tea with me one day in Paris was rather pleased with the bread or
little "croissants," and asked me where they came from. I said I didn't
know, but would ask the butler. That rather surprised her. Then she
said, "Your baker of course is a Protestant." That I didn't know either,
and, what was much worse in her eyes, I didn't care. She was quite
distressed, gave me the address of an excellent Swiss Protestant baker
and begged me to sever all connection with the Catholic at once. I asked
her if she really thought dangerous papist ideas were kneaded in with
the bread, but she would not listen to my mild "persiflage," and went
away rather anxious about my spiritual welfare.

We went always to the church at La Ferte for the fete of St. Cecile, as
the Fanfare played in the church on that day. The Fanfare was a very
important body. Nearly all the prominent citizens of La Ferte, who had
any idea of music, were members--the butcher, the baker, the coiffeur,
etc. The Mayor was president and walked at the head of the procession
when they filed into the church. I was "Presidente d'Honneur" and always
wore my badge pinned conspicuously on my coat. It was a great day for
the little town. Weeks before the fete we used to hear all about it from
the coiffeur when he came to the chateau to shave the gentlemen. He
play